On the road with Sophia.
From S-charl via Chamonna Lischana to Scuol
The first post bus takes us from Scuol to the tranquil hamlet of S-charl. The temperatures are already very cool in September and smoke is rising from the chimneys. Well wrapped up, we pass the last houses and head towards Alp Sesvenna. The slightly ascending path leads through a sparse coniferous forest that increasingly gives way to open terrain the higher you climb. The first morning light penetrates through the sparse branches and warms the numerous marmots that have just left their burrows. After about an hour, you reach Alp Sesvenna, shortly after which the path forks and the route to Fora da l'Aua becomes visible on the left.
Soon after entering the alpine route, it becomes steeper and steeper, after passing the last mountain pines, the path leads over loose scree. Here, sure-footedness and a head for heights are required for the first time, as the ground is not easy to walk on in places and there are some slightly exposed sections to pass. The sun rises higher, the path becomes steeper and steeper and you start to sweat - hat, gloves and down jacket have long since been stowed in the rucksack.
After a relatively long passage over rubble and scree, you finally reach compact rock and climbing enthusiasts will enthusiastically take their hands to help here. This section of the trail is almost entirely secured with chains, but they are not absolutely necessary. The last few metres up to Lajet da Lischana are somewhat flatter. Passing the first snow of the season, you walk along the deep blue lake the last few steps to the Fourcla da Rims and on to a bench that invites you to rest. However, due to the low temperatures and the strong wind at almost 3000 metres, the breather is short. The resistance to the cold is just enough for an entry in the «bench book».
The Rims plateau captivates with its variety of colours and the breathtaking mountain panorama, which you can enjoy while walking now that the path is level. At an early hour, you have this masterpiece of nature all to yourself.
The path forks a second time at a large boulder, and here too we choose the left turnoff to Chamonna Lischana, although the path to the summit of Piz Lischana also looks quite interesting - perhaps on another occasion.
The descent to Chamonna Lischana also requires some surefootedness, but is relatively short: after 4 hours from S-charl, I finally reach the small SAC hut built into the slope. Jayjay, the hut dog, awaits me just a few metres from the hut terrace. He is grateful for every stroke and, after arriving at the hut, immediately sets about guarding Scuol from above.
On the terrace of the small hut, it's a family atmosphere, you quickly get into conversation with each other, while the hut warden team serves local delicacies but also an absolutely recommendable Kaiserschmarren. By lunchtime at the latest, the cool temperatures of the early morning are forgotten and in the glorious sunshine I enjoy the view of Scuol and the opposite side of the valley: Piz Minschun, Piz Champatsch and Piz Spadla are strung together like pearls on a string.
Strengthened and rested, I set off on the descent to Scuol, accompanied by marmots that still dare to come out of hiding despite the hunting season. Soon the path leads into the forest, past the Funtana Cotschna and via Gurlaina to Scuol. Looking back to the south, the Chamonna Lischana catches your eye high up on its viewing platform and once again I am amazed at how far my own feet can carry me.
If the tour is too long for a one-day hike, you can also spread it over two days and spend the night in Chamonna Lischana in between.
Important to know
- Arrival: From Scuol there is a post bus to S-charl once an hour.
- Duration: approx. 6 hours hiking time
- Distance: 17 kilometres
- Ascent/descent: 1300m/1850m
- Difficulty: T4
- Equipment: sturdy hiking boots, warm and weatherproof clothing, possibly hiking poles, sun protection, emergency first-aid kit, sufficient drinking water and food
- Alternative: The trail can be walked in both directions, but caution is advised when descending via the Fora da l'Aua.
- Important note: There is no reception from S-Charl to the Rims plateau, so memorise the route or have an offline map at hand.
Sophia Bartolomei has been working as Product Manager Sustainability, Mineral Water & Health at the Engadin Samnaun Val Müstair holiday region since May 2022. In her free time, she loves to hike through the Engadin mountains on well-known and lesser-known trails.